Krasnoyarsk Pillars — one of the main business cards of Siberian nature

arcada
Siberian Blog
Published in
34 min readJun 3, 2021

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On the right bank of the mighty Yenisei, almost opposite Krasnoyarsk, is probably the most unusual area of Siberia, which has long attracted the attention of people.

In books, it was called “The Land of bizarre rocks”, “The Land of stone Giants” and other poetic names. And geographers put on their maps the name given to the amazing rocks by local residents — Krasnoyarsk Pillars.

The Krasnoyarsk Pillars Nature Reserve is truly a unique object not only in Siberia, but also around the world. It got its name because of the numerous rock pillars located on its territory. 200 years ago — a piece of remote taiga, today-a place of mass sports recreation of Krasnoyarsk residents and the very first goal for every tourist to visit.

Recreation in the park “Pillars” fascinates not the infrastructure or attractions (they are not here at all). It shocks with its panoramic view. This is the main observation platform of Krasnoyarsk. There is nothing higher in the vicinity of its central quarters. Climbers are constantly trying to break through here, but they were provided with a buffer zone (the fact is that the rock can quickly collapse from the cruel devices of rock climbers). Therefore, the neighboring ones (not reserved ones) Poles are the pride of extreme athletes. They have a hymn about them!

But the nature park “Pillars” is not only for athletes and mountaineers, it is a great place that can give a lot of impressions to a person of any age and state of health.

Park “Pillars” is designed in such a way that it has no age restrictions in terms of visitors. However, sports and children’s playgrounds are located not on the territory itself, but at various recreation centers. There are also places of public catering and other benefits of civilization.

And the main value for a tourist with a wide variety of training levels is 67 options for equipped routes, in which the tourist will certainly feel an explosion of emotions from immersion in the beautiful nature of Siberia.

The history of the Pillars begins somewhere in the Cenozoic era, about 50 million years ago. Due to powerful tectonic processes, faults appeared in the earth’s crust, and voids were formed in the thickness of soft sedimentary rocks, which were filled with syenitic magma. It never broke through to the surface of the Earth, frozen in the bowels. At the turn of the Tertiary and Quaternary periods, about 2 million years ago, the arch-shaped uplift of the Eastern Sayan began, and with it the cooled magma, the intrusion. The work was completed by skilled sculptors-wind, water and sun. It was enough to remove the excess-clay shales and limestones — and now, the centuries-old work is finished: the incredible beauty of the bizarre pink-gray rocks rise above the taiga. The highest reach 100 meters.

For a long time, this place, rich in diverse wildlife, was known only to hunters and gold seekers who wandered in search of valuable metal along the taiga streams. They kept the approaches to it a secret. Prokhor Seleznev, a mining prospector, was the first to publicly talk about the protected area. In his report, written in 1823, we find the following lines:

“The rocks are very great and wonderfully created. Only it is difficult to get there, a horse will not pass, a foot will not pass, and there are a lot of wild animals there. Various stories are told about them. Perhaps it is true that they say that in other lands you will not see such a thing. And no one can climb these rocks, and what they are, is unknown.”

In that distant time, two centuries ago, the Khakas and the aborigines of the Sayan Mountains — Tofalars, who inhabited the Yenisei Valley, worshipped unusual rocks, considering them the earthly incarnation of the gods. They offered sacrifices to the harsh stone giants guarding the taiga and its treasures, hoping that their help would bring good luck on the upcoming hunt.

In an old photo of a woman from the village of the indigenous people of Tofalary in Sayan, the end of the XlX century

Conquering the Pillars

The Pillars were declassified by Pyotr Chikhachev, one of the founders of the Russian Geographical Society. In 1842, he came here to study the geological structure of the rocks, and then wrote about it in the book “A Scientific Journey through the Eastern Altai and the southern regions of Siberia”, published in France. And then there were many people who wanted to see the miracle with their own eyes. And when they saw the stone giants, many could not resist the temptation: it is necessary to climb, to conquer. The year 1851 went down in the history of rock climbing as the date of the emergence of Krasnoyarsk stolbism (a local term denoting a sporty and in some sense philosophical way of life, realized through climbing the rocks. Something like mountaineering in miniature.It is a derivative of the word “Pillar”, in Russian — Stolb ). The teacher of the Vladimir orphanage, Veniamin Kapin, organized the ascent of his students to the First Pole.

Old photo of followers of the Stolbism movement, the beginning of the twentieth century

The fantastic shapes of the rocks aroused popular imagination, and many of them were given talking names: the Chinese Wall, Pagoda, Golden Eagle, Feathers, Sparrows, Wolf’s Forehead, Musk Deer, Monk, Sinner. There is even a whole family: Grandfather, Great-grandfather, Grandmother and Granddaughter. The four pillars have only ordinal numbers, for some reason there were no names for them. Climbers have long conquered all the pillars without exception, there would be the necessary technical training. But even experienced athletes do not ignore the smallest column — an Elephant, whose height is only 4.5 meters.

An old photo of the followers of the Stolbism movement.

For Krasnoyarsk rock climbers, the Pillars are their home, they even build huts among the rocks. The first one was put on the slope next to the Third Pillar in 1892. The hospitable hut quickly became a unifying center. It was then that the first traditions of “stolbism” were laid: hospitality, mutual assistance, friendship. In the spring of 1906, police gendarmes burned down the first Pillars hut: allegedly, revolutionary-minded youth gathered there. At about the same time, a huge inscription “Freedom”appeared on one of the rocks. Since then, a lot of water has flowed away, but this word has survived to this day, it is constantly updated by old-timers. True stolbists are true to tradition: the beginning was laid, and after the failure of the first house, the huts began to grow among the rocks like mushrooms after rain. There is always cleanliness and order around: the place is unique, everyone understands this here. Despite the fact that each hut has owners, guests are always welcome, food and overnight accommodation will not be denied. This is also the law. When in 1925, on the initiative of Krasnoyarsk residents, the Pillars and the surrounding area were declared a state reserve, it was not necessary to teach the rules of behavior in the protected area. Thanks largely to the “green” columbists in the reserve (about 500 m2 of mountain taiga between the tributaries of the Yenisei Mana and Bazaikha), it was possible to preserve animals and plants listed in the Red Book of Russia.

The stobism movement continues to live actively, and now there are heroes and even real people-legends.

The famous modern columnist Alexey Didukha, nicknamed “Krasnoyarsk Spider-Man” or simply “Andronych”
Modern stolbists. Andronych is in the center of the picture, in a blue jacket, barefoot (he took off his shoes at a rest stop so that “ his feet breathe”)

The name of the famous Krasnoyarsk mountaineer Andrey Didukh has long been covered with legends. Most Krasnoyarsk residents know him by the name of Andronych or Grandfather-spider. And they know not only on the Krasnoyarsk Pillars, where he regularly puts on a show on the rock of Feathers, deftly and without insurance going down headfirst, but also abroad.

By the way, this man is 70 years old…

But let’s return to the object of our conversation, the natural park “Pillars”

I also want to mention the famous Russian artist Vasily Surikov and his impressions of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars.

The great Russian artist Surikov, a native of Krasnoyarsk, spoke enthusiastically about these places. “I have seen the Swiss and Italian Alps, but nowhere have I seen such beauty as this…” he wrote.

(Vasily Surikov (1848–1916) — a famous Russian artist, who became famous in the genre of historical painting. He reflected on his canvases the main dramatic events of Russian history.)

The most famous paintings by Vasily Surikov:

Painting “ Morning of the Streltsy Execution”
The painting “The Conquest of Siberia by Ermak” by the artist Surikov

Despite the high conservation status, the rocks can be seen by everyone. And while some admire the fantastic landscapes and bizarre outlines of mysterious giants, others conquer them, clinging to the ledges of syenite pillars.

How to get to the Pillars

By car: exit from Krasnoyarsk in the direction of Abakan-Kyzyl M54, 300 meters after the traffic police post, turn left. You can park your car in a secure paid parking lot near the “Laletino” cordon. It’s only 5 kilometers from here.

By bus or minibus, which go from the railway and bus station, to the public transport stop of the Camp site.From the center there is a bus number 19. Numbers 50 and 78 stop here (they pass the points located relatively close to the train stations). Nearby is the route №146, which runs from Divnogorsk to Krasnoyarsk. The name of the campsite and the train station. She drives here from the railway station. From the airport, it is possible to drive along the streets of Severnoye Shosse, Ostrozhnaya, Kalinina, Vysotnaya, Nikolaevsky Prospekt (cross the bridge) and Sverdlovskaya (the turn on the rise begins from the Krasnoyarsk Pillars monument, which stands right next to the highway). Parking is available here, as well as another one-already at the very cordon of the reserve. After 800 meters of the way — a camp site, after another 210 meters-a barrier (we leave the car and go ahead). Then walk 7 kilometers on the road up to the First pillar. All the rocks of the Central Area are located within a radius of one kilometer. There are signs on the trails.

You can also get from the city by train. To get to the “Pillars” by train, you need to take a ticket for the Krasnoyarsk-Divnogorsk train, which runs 2 times a day at 4: 30 and 17: 50 from the railway station. The fare is about 25 rubles. The station is also called as a bus stop — “Camp Site”. From the station, you need to walk 350 meters in a southerly direction to the road, and from there follow the path leading to the Central Pillars.

To the rocks themselves, you need to walk 6–7 km uphill, but there are shops and recreation areas with gazebos and cafeterias I advise you to buy “raw” sunflower seeds in advance in the city — local chipmunks eat them from their hands, it gives wonderful emotions and amazing photos.

Chipmunks on the Krasnoyarsk pillars
Chipmunks on the Krasnoyarsk pillars

How much does it cost

Park “Pillars” shows this price for all its various services:

Admission is free. Only further penetration into the remote areas adjacent directly to the reserve territory and guided tours are paid.

How much will you have to spend on living here for one person?! Here’s the average check:

Campsite on the road from the monument — from 4.5 to 6 thousand rubles per day (without food). The complex “Narym” — absolutely the same prices (the rest point is considered elite). If you want cheap food — it is in the buffer zones (on the ascents to the Central Pillars). These giant service stairs start from the ski complex “Bobrovy Log” and from the road to the cordon “Laletino”. Equipped platforms with merchants meeting here and there will be under your feet even behind this checkpoint.

How to issue a pass to the buffer zone

If you plan to go deep into the reserve on a multi-day route, you will need a tourist pass to the buffer zone. To do this, you need to contact the management of the reserve, which is located at the address of Krasnoyarsk, 26a Kariernaya Street. Take your passport with you and be ready to describe in detail to the employee the route that you plan to visit and specify the date of the hike. The fee for staying in the buffer zone is 250 rubles per person. After all the necessary documents are submitted and the money is paid, a pass is issued. It indicates the number of people in the group. On average, one pass is issued by 5 people. On the appointed day, the group can move along the specified route. If you meet an employee of the reserve, just show him a pass. For being in the buffer zone without documents, a fine is provided.

What time of year is it worth visiting the park

Summer is the best time to visit the reserve. Due to the high altitude above sea level, it is short here, about two and a half months. The weather is often cool, and it rains regularly. It is very beautiful in autumn, when the coniferous trees are still green and full of energy, and between them sometimes bright and contrasting yellow-red crowns of small birches flash. Autumn comes early, in mid-August, the leaves are already beginning to turn yellow. I advise everyone to visit the reserve at this time. The atmosphere of the autumn forest on the Pillars is indescribable.

Golden autumn in the park

But even in winter, the “Pillars” do not fall asleep, tourist bases are ready to receive guests all year round, a number of hiking routes continue to operate, slides for skiing appear, ski routes are laid. Krasnoyarsk Pillars are beautiful in winter and shrouded in snow — this is a great time for hiking, but no more. At this time of year, climbing even simple rocks can be dangerous because of the freezing ice.

Krasnoyarsk pillars in winter

Early spring is the most unfavorable time to visit. Slush begins, unstable weather. Most of the park is closed due to the danger of waking up bears. Late spring is the peak of tick activity on the Poles. In the spring, it is worth visiting the reserve, taking into account security measures.

The schedule of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars park in the summer is round the clock. There is also a camp site in the buffer zone. In some seasons, the administration reserves the right to close the protected area — due to weather conditions or bear activity.

Please do not bring musical instruments and transistors, as well as dogs and cats to the park — this is prohibited in the reserve.

The territory of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars Park

The Krasnoyarsk Pillars Nature Reserve is located on the north-western spurs of the Eastern Sayan.

The area of the reserve is 47,219 hectares.

The reserve stretches for 34 kilometers from north-west to south-east. This is a typical section of the mid-mountain taiga landscape. The altitude ranges from 200 m to 750 m above sea level.

Along the northern border flows the Yenisei, in the north-east and south — its tributaries: the Bazaiha and Mana rivers.

The reserve is located in the temperate climate zone. The average temperature of the coldest month, January, is -17.6 °C, and the hottest, July, is +16.2 °C.

Wildlife

Main tree species: pine, larch, cedar, spruce, fir, birch.

150 plant species are listed in the Red Book of Russia.

58 species of mammals. The largest species of red deer, the maral, is widely distributed.199 species of birds, among which there are listed in the Red Book: long-tailed lentil, black stork, steppe eagle, burial ground, osprey, golden eagle, saker falcon, peregrine falcon.

Here, among the dark-coniferous fir taiga, there is a rare Siberian deer — Kabarga, the smallest hoofed animal in Russia. He is less than a meter tall, and weighs only fifteen kilograms.

Kabarga

Kabarga like to graze in places where there are steep rocks, large stones or cliffs. In case of a predator attack, it jumps on a high rock ledge inaccessible to the enemy and “defends” there until the enemy leaves.

Kabarga do not have horns, but the males have long ten-centimeter fangs sticking out of their mouths, giving their muzzles a completely atypical ferocious expression for deer.

In addition to them, red deer live in the reserve-marals, roe deer and elk. There are also many predators here: bears, wolves, lynxes and wolverines. From small predatory animals come across sables, stoats, foxes and otters. So the hares, squirrels, colons, and pipits that inhabit the taiga also have enough enemies.

At the foot of the taiga ridges, firs are replaced by light-coniferous trees: pine and larch. They grow throughout the territory occupied by rock outcrops. The pure coniferous forest of valuable species surrounding the tourist gives a completely magical healing air with the aromas of pine needles, wood resins.

All four-legged and feathered taiga inhabitants are under strict protection. But the area closest to Krasnoyarsk and has long served as a place of mass tourism and mountaineering, is endowed with a special status. It houses a tourist and excursion area.

rock “Chinese Wall”
Ermak rock
Torgashevsky ridge, grotto “ TV”

The main infrastructure of the park:

Information and service center “Pereval» (The Pass)

Working hours: Mon-Tue-closed, Wed-Thu: 10: 00–17: 00, Fri:10:00–16: 00, Sat-Sun:10:00–18: 00.
I advise every tourist visiting the Pillars for the first time to look into the log house of the information service. Here you can get detailed information about the routes and buy souvenirs. At the stand in the center there is always up-to-date information about events held on the territory of the reserve. If, during a walk, you are injured, then you will definitely get help, and if necessary, call rescuers or an ambulance. In the room there is a mother and child room.

Tourist center “Pereval»

Tourist center “Pereval»

Opening hours: Mon-Thu: 10: 00–17: 00, Fri:10:00–16: 00, Sat-Sun:10:00–18: 00.
The center was built recently and is very popular with tourists in winter. Here you can always warm up after a walk and drink tea from a thermos. In the spacious hall of the center, crafts and drawings dedicated to the reserve are displayed.

Scientific and educational complex “Narym»

“Narym” is a real educational town for everyone who wants to plunge into the world of nature of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars Nature Reserve. You can get to it from the cordon “Pass”. You just need to go straight along the highway for another 500 meters. The complex consists of eight guest houses, a scientific hospital, administration and a summer tent camp. On the territory of the complex there is a school of ecology “Immersion”.

Scientific and educational complex “Narym»

The cost of renting a house is 4500–6500 rubles per day. Despite all the austerity, everything is always bright and clean. For those who want to save money, the administration of “Narym” offers a mini-hostel. There are only 4 seats, but the price is pleasant — 550 rubles per person per day. It is even cheaper to put up a tent in an equipped camp — 350 rubles a day.

Mountaineering and climbing camp “ Vultures”

It is located in the buffer zone of the reserve, literally on the border of the closed zone. To stomp to it from the stop “Camp Site” about 15 km, access to the buffer zone by special passes.

Mountaineering and climbing camp “ Vultures”

This is not only an object of the park’s infrastructure, but also an old attraction, for which people sometimes make a trip here. “The Vulture hut is a legend of the Krasnoyarsk pillars. To get to the hut, you need to pass over the abyss on a log that falls on chains, like a bridge in a medieval castle.” And this is a kind of symbolic test, after which the tourist is ordained as a “mountaineer”.

If you look closely, you can see the hut of the mountaineering camp with a blue roof on the rock. Do not pay attention to the fact that the color of the roof in the pictures is different, the photos are from different seasons, the parking lot is regularly updated.
Frosty morning near the mountaineering camp “Vultures”. A cup of hot tea charges the mood!
The interior of the legendary parking lot “Vultures” is unsightly and ascetic, but the spirit of sports unity and mutual assistance reigns in it!

Fanpark “Bobrovy log”

world-class all-season sports and recreation park-located in a recreational area on the border with the State Reserve “Krasnoyarsk Pillars” just a 20-minute drive from the city center of Krasnoyarsk. The complex is open 12 months a year, providing unique opportunities for mass sports and modern outdoor recreation. The amazing uniqueness of the natural landscape, developed infrastructure, high level of service, a wide range of services and proximity to the city center make the complex unique in the Siberian region.

Fanpark “Bobrovy log”

In winter, the Fanpark operates in the format of a ski complex. The ski season lasts for 6 months. The Fanpark uses the modern automated snowmaking system TechnoAlpin, thanks to which a stable snow cover on the tracks is guaranteed from November to April. Artificial snow is leveled and compacted with the help of specialized snow-compacting equipment Kässbohrer (snow trucks), making the surface of the tracks prepared. In winter, there are 15 ski slopes of different levels of difficulty (simple, complex, very complex), with a total length of more than 10 km and elevation differences of up to 350 m, one training slope for beginners equipped with a baby elevator and soft figures. The two main slopes with slopes are equipped with four-person chairlifts of the Austrian company Doppelmayr (K1 and K2). In addition, there are two-seat tow lifts and tow lifts installed on several routes.

The slope of the K2 chairlift is equipped with sports lighting, thanks to which riding in the Fanpark is possible in the dark. The complex offers the services of an automated depot for storing equipment and equipment, as well as equipment rental of leading world brands, instructors, an ice rink, bunting (snow tubing) and a children’s club for comfortable leisure of children while parents relax on the slope.

View of Krasnoyarsk from the Cable car
Map of the slopes of the Bobrovy Log ski resort

In summer and in the off-season, the Fanpark “Bobrovy Log” is a territory of active recreation and entertainment: Sightseeing trips on the K1 chairlift, extreme attractions unique for Russia, a beach and an open-air swimming pool with warm water, playgrounds, picnic pavilions, cafes, bars, a premium restaurant, a SPA complex, trails for downhill (downhill mountain biking) and terrenkura (wellness walking).

The most popular attraction in the Beaver Log is the Rodelban. The attraction is a combination of a bobsled and a roller coaster. It is located on a natural terrain. The route makes the highest turn at the point of a panoramic view of Krasnoyarsk and the Krasnoyarsk Pillars Nature Reserve.

During the descent, the trolleys can reach speeds of up to 45 km/h. The descent takes place in the manual braking control mode. The largest in Europe-the length of 3.4 km. In winter, the attraction is open up to-15C. Children under 7 years of age are not allowed on the attraction.

The most popular attraction in the Beaver Log is the Rodelban.

Popular routes for tourists and significant cliffs for climbers:

Laletinskaya road.

The length is 7 km. The level is easy. Equipment — comfortable shoes.

Pillars near Krasnoyarsk — a place of mass recreation of residents. Not everyone who visits them climbs the cliffs, for some it’s just a few hours walk in nature near the city. The Laletinskaya road is a route for people of all ages.

200 years ago, there were no trails or paths here, and you had to wade through the impenetrable taiga. Today, most of the road has been paved with asphalt, and comfortable recreation areas have been arranged. The starting point for the Pillars is the Laletino cordon, named after the river of the same name, along the log of which most of the road passes. You will have to walk 2 kilometers to get here from the bus stop. The path will be brightened up by the views of the rocks surrounding the path.

Laletino cordon

As soon as you pass through the high wrought-iron gates, you will find yourself on the territory of the reserve. A little further down the road is the chapel of St. John the Baptist, dedicated to the memory of those who aspired to the heights. Nearby is a memorial with the names of those who died on the rocks. The doors of the chapel are open from Monday to Saturday from 9: 00 to 18: 00, on Sunday the Divine Liturgy is held from 9: 00 to 10: 00. With the ministers, you can arrange for the sacraments of baptism, confession,communion or wedding.

chapel of St. John the Baptist

From the cordon “Laletino” originates the ecological trail “Book of Nature”, more about which I will tell below.

the trail starts at the Laletino cordon

The next kilometer will go up. There are two ways to pass it:

the first one is still on the same paved road;
the second– to the right will leave a noticeable dirt road.

At the end, on the Second Cross-Section (a tributary of the Laletino River), a good children’s town with swings and a gazebo is built.

The next 2 km will be a decent climb, and almost at the very end of the next fork:

The road to the right is suitable for tired tourists. A good primer, although longer than 200 meters, than a sharp rise up, but more gentle.

The road is straight only for daredevils. The promising name “Chugger” guarantees that you will have to sweat a lot, even despite the wooden steps.

the road to the top “ Chugger”

Here we are at last at the “Pass” — the place where the routes to most of the rocks of the Central Pillars originate. Here you can take a break, find out the necessary information in the service center or have a snack at the stall. I recommend you to try Siberian sbiten-an authentic Siberian hot drink made of herbs and berries, which is poured in one of them.

siberian sbiten is an authentic Siberian hot drink made from herbs, honey, berries and seasonings

Ecological trail “The Book of Nature»

The length is 1.3 km. The level is easy. Equipment — comfortable shoes.

The route appeared quite recently, only in 2011, as part of the development of educational tourism. The ecological trail runs along the highway leading to the Pillars and will be of interest to all those who visit the reserve for the first time.

blue route on the map

The trail originates from the chapel of St. John the Baptist. Innokenty, runs along the Laletino River, and ends at a tributary of the First Transversal. Along the way, there are 11 stops with educational stands, where you can learn about the history, animal and plant life of the reserve. The trail is not in vain has the prefix eco -, because it is made of wooden screw piles, which not only make walking on it convenient for both children and the elderly, but also protect the soil cover of the reserve. If desired, you can return to the city from the First Cross Road along the paved road without reaching the Central Pillars.

Ecological trail “The Book of Nature»
Ecological trail “The Book of Nature»

Central Pillars

Distance — 3.2 km. The level is easy, suitable for people of all ages. Equipment — comfortable trekking shoes, tea, a small supply of food to restore strength.

start of the Central Pillars route

The territory of the Central Pillars starts from the Pass (tourist parking). In just a couple of hours (the time is taken into account without climbing the rocks), you can have time to get acquainted with the most popular Pillars. The best choice for those who have only one day to visit the reserve. The route is circular, runs along well-trodden trails. The trees are marked with blue paint, which will not let you get lost. Suitable for any time of the year.

Elephant Rock

From the Pass to the Elephant is only 10 minutes up the wooden stairs. At first glance, it is hard to believe that this incongruous piece of rock, with a sharp ridge and a gentle slope on one side, is a real school for any stolbist. I have often seen people of different ages around him, storming the stone sides from all sides. On the reverse side, athletes practice rock climbing techniques. It is said that experienced stolbists know several dozen moves on this rock, which can pass only a few. In fact, it is not so easy to climb an Elephant even on the “children’s course”.

Elephant Rock

The First Pillar

One of the largest rock massifs on the central Pillars. It is located directly opposite the Elephant. Due to the height of 87 meters, the “First” is visible from afar. You can go up there without special training on a simple course “Coil” or “Bell”, however, I do not advise you to do this without an experienced guide. From above, you can enjoy a stunning view of the surrounding area, Krasnoyarsk is visible.

The First Pillar

rocks Grandmother and Granddaughter

Two thirty-meter-high rocks, so named because of the rock “Grandfather”, which we will meet next.

rocks Grandmother and Granddaughter

rock Grandfather

From the side, the rock really resembles a bearded grandfather in earflaps, and a photo of her profile adorns many guides to the Pillars. The place is interesting, I like to lie on one of my Grandfather’s “shoulders” in hot weather and sunbathe. There are five routes to the rock, the simplest of which is called “Khomutik”, it passes through the left “ ear “ of the post.
Interesting fact: in 1960, the crown of the “Grandfather” was struck by lightning and split the stone lying there into two parts. The climber Eremin became a witness of this event.

Grandfather Rock. However, many argue that this is more like a profile of a monkey :)

Rock of Feathers

Feathers — the most amazing, in my opinion, the accumulation of rocks on the Pillars. It is incomprehensible to the mind how nature could lay down heavy, hard stones in such a bizarre and airy way. From a distance, they look like sails pointing into the sky. The height of the rock is only 42 meters, but, without exaggeration, they can be called the most dangerous for climbing. Without special training, you should not meddle with them.

Rock of Feathers

There are 16 moves per Feather. It is considered that it is necessary to pass them without insurance, they say, you can not do otherwise-do not climb at all.

Experienced stolbists arrange real games with death on the Feathers — in a matter of seconds they climb into the strut to the very top, and then fall like a stone, at the last moment placing their feet in the cracks between the rocks, thereby stopping the fall. The most desperate do this number upside down, on their hands or blindfolded.

At the base of the rock, you can see a small memorial to Volodya Teplykh, who fell from the very top of the Feathers in 1989. The small sign serves as a great reminder to all those who conjure on the Pillars. I also urge you not to do deadly tricks and limit yourself to just contemplating nature.

Lion Gate Rock

15 meters from the Feathers is another quaint composition-the Lion Gate. To an unsophisticated tourist, it will appear as a huge stone, stuck under the influence of unprecedented forces, between two peaks of neighboring rocks.

Lion Gate Rock

People cautiously pass through the “Lion’s Gate”, fearing that a huge block may fall at any moment.
In fact, the rock is monolithic. Over the years, wind and water have broken up the weaker rock, leaving a stone gate. The easiest way to climb them is from the west side. It is from there that the outline of the rock resembles a sleeping lion, which gave the name to the entire complex.

Rock “Lion Gate”, photo of the late 19th century

Fourth Pillar

Quite high (40 meters), but easy to climb rock. The fourth pillar is one of my favorite places on the Central Pillars, where you can not risk enough to climb. In summer, tourists like to come here for an overnight stay. Warm nights allow you to spread your sleeping bag directly on the rocks heated by the sun during the day and spend the night alone with yourself. From the top, you can enjoy a stunning view of the surrounding area. In addition, the “Fourth” is equipped with 4 routes of extreme climbing of international class.

Fourth Pillar

Third pillar

Going down the slope 100 meters from the Fourth Pillar, you can see, at first glance, the Third Pillar. From its 30-meter peak, there are no beautiful views, and the ascents there are technically not as interesting as on other rocks. However, it was under the upper canopy of the pillar that the first hut was built 125 years ago, which gave rise to the entire Stolbist movement of that time.
From the Third Pillar, the road again returns to the “First” one. I advise you to stop here again and try to climb the Elephant again. After this walk, you, even if a little, but became a real Stolbist.

Third pillar

route Kashtakovskaya trail

Distance — 16 km. The level is easy. Equipment — comfortable trekking shoes, a thermos of tea, a snack.

One of the most interesting routes is the Kashtakovskaya trail. You will have to walk much more here, but the stunning views from the observation decks will give genuine emotions to those who decide to go all the way to the end. From the Beaver Log to the Pass, the trail is marked on the trees in yellow. The route is not a circular one, and it will not end where it starts, so I recommend that you come by public transport. If desired, the entire path can be done in the opposite direction.

yellow route on the map
children-tourists go along the route Kashtakovskaya trail

Fanpark “ Bobrovy log”

The route starts from the Bobrovy Log ski resort. You can get here from the city by bus number 37. If you still arrived by private car, park it either in the paid parking lot of the complex (100 rubles), or leave it along the road, as most do.
At the ticket office of the fan park, you need to buy a ticket for the excursion ascent to K-1 (adults — 270 rubles, children — 170). If the cable car does not work for some reason, or you just want to save money, you can climb the mountain yourself on the path that runs to the left of the cable car. It is worth considering that the climb up the mountain is quite steep.
The trail starts at the top of the ski slope. Turn right and start your journey along the wooden deck.

route Kashtakovskaya trail

Just a couple of dozen steps will open a stunning view from the observation deck to the endless Siberian taiga. This view is literally breathtaking. On the panoramic stand located there, you can get acquainted with many rocks of the Pillars of the Krasnoyarsk Territory and immediately find them with your eyes among the trees.

The Enchanted Forest

After about a kilometer, the aspen forest begins, where you can see a sign saying that you are in the territory of the so-called “Enchanted Forest”. Legend has it that in 1927, when a terrible storm hit Krasnoyarsk, in this forest, not that the wind did not rise, the flame of a lighted match did not waver.

Viewpoint Pillars

The next stop is viewpoint, located on the right side of the trail. It is a low, easily accessible rock with a good view of the Central Pillars. Below, on the opposite side of the trail are the rocks Sinner, Mummy and Grivka. A traditional place for tourists to stop. They stop at this place and, admiring the views, refresh themselves with tea and sandwiches. The passed 3 km manage to lift the tourist 100 meters up.

Rock formations

Then the rocks will come across one after another. Each of them has its own name-Pyatak, Monk, Nun, Moth, Kashtakovsky Locomotives. The light forest around us is replaced by pine trees, and the air smells of pine needles.

Rock formations

City Viewpoint

Opens a view of the rocks of the Takmakovsky district, behind which you can see Krasnoyarsk.
view of the Takmak rocks

Watering hole and Alley of Love

In the place where the Hily stream originates, there is a small rock Watering Hole, probably named after the source located here. Immediately behind it begins a dense spruce forest. I don’t know why, but the path in this part is called the Alley of Love. Ahead of us is a fork-if you go straight, you can go to the Mana River, a right turn will lead to the Central Pillars. That’s where we need to go, so look carefully at the yellow markings of the trees and do not go off the right path.

Markings on trees that suggest routes that pass here

Forerunner and Firstborn

Curving, the trail leads to two rocks — the Forerunner and the Firstborn. The names indicate that we are in the territory of the Central Pillars. You can pass by, or you can conquer these rocks, because climbing them is suitable for beginners.

Central Pillars

Then the trail goes to the already familiar circular route of the Central Pillars. Finally, we will go through the Fourth Pillar, the Feathers, the Grandfather, the Grandmother, the First Pillar and the Elephant.

Route “ Mokhovoy”

The time of visiting the route is all year round, except, perhaps, in April and early May, when the Mokhovaya stream comes to life and floods.
Take more drinking water or an empty spring water container, a thermos of tea, and sandwiches.
In winter, grab some ice cubes.

It is convenient to get to the beginning of the route from the city in the following ways:

Take bus number 37 from the train station to the final stop “ pos. Bazaikha”, walk about 1.5 kilometers along Bazaiskaya Street before turning into the valley of the Mokhovaya creek (the left tributary of the Bazaikha River). At the point where Bazayskaya turns 90 degrees to the left (the landmark is a private house №345 “a”) , you need to go to the only road that goes to the right. On this dirt road, which goes up, go another 800 meters before the start of the route.

If you are traveling by car:

Turn from Sverdlovskaya Street to Bazayskaya Street, drive about 3.8 km to the above turn and then another 700–800 meters to the parking lot. There’s only one road here, so it’s impossible to get lost. The main thing is not to pass the turn!
There is no specially equipped parking lot here, and there are few parking spaces — the landscape does not allow it. On weekends, with good weather, hundreds of people go and go to the “Pillars”. Parking spaces are occupied according to the principle :” Who got up earlier, that and sneakers”. Therefore, those who arrived by car later, leave it along the road or near a large abandoned building. The ideal location is near the administrative building at the address: Bazayskaya str., №210a / 1.

At the beginning of the route, you can get acquainted with the information stands, as well as sit on the benches, gaining strength and enjoying the murmur of the Mokhovoye stream. Here, to the right of the road, a spring comes out of the mountain. If you have a spare container, make sure to fill it with fresh and clean water before you go on.

The path that you will follow next is called the “Athlete’s Path”. It runs in a deep hollow, along the Mossy stream, among a mixed forest, tall grass and shrubs. The surrounding of this log is very beautiful — dozens of rocks and rock massifs of bizarre shapes are arranged in an amphitheater: on the right rises the Takmakovskaya Ridge — the largest in the reserve, on the left-the Ermak rock and the Chinese Wall, and right-the Sparrow rocks.

Ermak rock
Chinese Wall rock
mountain range “Sparrows” and the panorama of Krasnoyarsk beyond it

After walking two hundred meters on the left side, you will see a stone quarry — this is all that remains of the rock complex “Kizyam” and the rock “Olenok”, which were destroyed at the beginning of the XX century and gradually pulled apart over the century.
Then the trail is replaced by a comfortable wooden deck with a railing. After about 300 meters, the equipped road will end, and several paths will open up in front of you.

The shortest route is the Ermak rock. To get there, you need to turn left, cross the Mokhovaya Creek, go straight a little and turn left again, as if going back, and along the path we climb steeply up the mountain. Yermak offers beautiful panoramas of Krasnoyarsk and the Torgashinsky Ridge. If you have more time, you can go straight between the hills and in about an hour you will be at the Chinese Wall.

Torgashinsky Ridge
Torgashinsky ridge, grotto “ TV”

On the right side of the road, starting from the quarry, there are paths to the Takmak rocks. The further you go, the higher the ascents (13 paths in total). In winter, there is a lot of fun and extreme skiing from the slides. On the Takmakovskaya ridge there are a lot of interesting rocks and wonderful views of the city and the reserve area. But don’t forget, these are very hard-to-reach rocks for beginners.

Takmak rocks

If you have enough time, you can visit the Sparrow Rock massif. Here, on the oval top of the mountain, there are bizarre rocks: Toad, Chick, Nest, Wolf’s Forehead, Bullfinch. It is necessary to go straight, and the Mokhovaya River should be on the right, behind there is a path across the bridge in the direction of the Chinese Wall and the sports base “Ruygovka”. After about five hundred meters, a right turn will appear. Here you can easily cross the stream on a log or on large stones, and, passing the Moss, the path will lead you up. The closer to the top, the steeper the path will be. If you go slowly with small breaks, then the ascent will take a little more than an hour.
There are very accessible viewpoints on Vorobushki, which can easily be climbed by older people and very young tourists. They offer stunning views of the nature reserve and the city. On weekdays, unlike the Central Pillars, it is not crowded here. For this route, you need to have at least four hours left. And it is best to go for the whole day.

group of rocks “Sparrows”: “Toad” in the center, “Chick” on the right

The route “ Bobrovy log”

This is the shortest route we are considering, with a minimum travel time of 1 hour.

To get to the start of the route from the city like this:

Take bus №37 from the train station to the Bobrovy Log Fan Park stop. If you arrived by car, you can leave it in the paid parking lot on the territory of the “Bobrovy Log”, and you can save money and park the car along the road.

Then walk through the fan park and buy a ticket for the K1 chairlift at the ticket office. On it, admiring the views of Krasnoyarsk, the mighty Yenisei and the Siberian forest, you will climb to the upper observation deck.
The ascent to the top of the slope will take no more than seven minutes. Prepare your cameras and/or video cameras in advance to capture the most beautiful views.

cable car lift

At the top of the Takmakovskaya ridge, next to the ski lift, you can eat at the bar in the tent “Vibram” or drink aromatic herbal tea in the yurt, as well as get acquainted with the information stands. There, through binoculars, you can see the surroundings of Krasnoyarsk.

In winter, this mountain is used for downhill skiing by snowboarders and skiers.
Be sure to visit the observation deck, located just 350 meters from the chairlift. The exit to the desired road is to the right of the lift.
The site offers a breathtaking view of the vast expanses of the Siberian taiga.
From here, the path goes westward towards the central Pillars with access to the cordon “Laletino”. This is a very long route, which will take at least six hours, but it is extremely interesting.

If you have time, be sure to take a walk in the direction of the Takmakovskaya ridge. To do this, you need to return to the “cable car” and go down the east wide road in the direction of Takmak. On the left side you will see panoramic views of the city, beautiful “Alpine” lawns, as well as picnic pavilions made of massive logs. After four hundred meters, a very steep descent to the Takmak rock massif will begin.

group of rocks Takmakovskaya ridge

Here you can finish your little hike by conquering maly Takmak, located in front of the last summer gazebo “Snow Leopard”, just before the descent. Its north-western ridge is suitable for both the elderly and the young.
If you have the right shoes and have the time, we advise you to continue further down the trail.
After walking just over four hundred meters, you will find yourself at the foot of the Takmaka rocks, which are the most powerful syenite outlet in the entire reserve.

There are many different courses and routes, among them you can easily find very accessible trails that even children can master. Quaint pine trees, secluded corners and views from here will not leave you indifferent.

And finally, a small photobonus with shots from the Krasnoyarsk pillars.

view of the rock “ Second Pillar”
winter Krasnoyarsk pillars
autumn Krasnoyarsk pillars
summer Krasnoyarsk pillars
in May, the iris blooms in the park
tourists in the Krasnoyarsk pillars
rock wall of China and fog
Third pillar
grandfather rock
Krasnoyarsk lights behind the rocks
rock “Feathers” in winter
sunset in the Krasnoyarsk Pillars

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arcada
Siberian Blog

Hi! My name is Alex and I’m Russian :) And I live in a closed “atomic” city, somewhere in the depths of the Siberian taiga.